[Post-Edit Note: All pictures and written content in this post was originally created in 2014, unless otherwise credited.]

.

Hue once served as the imperial capital of Vietnam – and for good reason it did. With its ancient Citadel, pagodas, and palaces, Hue was once upon a time, quite literally, a place fit for kings.

Set amidst poetic scenes of boundless greenery, magnificent lakes, and astounding architecture (one has to remember that these complexes were, after all, constructed some two hundred years ago in the 1800s), Hue is a modern celestial dream-come-true, brimming to the edge with palatial monuments and extravagant artefacts befitting that of an oriental fairytale. Unfortunately, this precious province also eventually played host to one of the world’s ugliest and most painful wars, thereupon suffering insurmountable damage to much of its grandiose landscape. Some of the bloodiest battles of the nineteen-year-long U.S.-Vietnam War occurred within the confines of this very city; and as such, today, a great fraction of Hue’s parameters consists primarily of ex-air and combat bases, bombed territories, civilian tunnels, and of course, the extremely symbolic yet invisible line of demarcation that once marked North and South Vietnam apart.

And perhaps it’s precisely because of this – a solid mix of new and old history – that puts Hue on the map and in the hearts of history buffs today. Because of all that it’s been through, Hue has successfully curated for itself a milestone-packed timeline worthy of a UNESCO World Heritage stamp. Like what Halong Bay is to the north, the compilation of Royal Tombs, imperial palaces, and remnants of the War remains Hue’s claim to fame today, making it a niche Vietnamese travel destination despite the fact that it is eminently still a work-in-progress as an actual tourist hub. Hue can appear fairly unremarkable to the untrained tourist’s eye: it lacks the effervescent charm of Hanoi and the street bustle of Ho Chi Minh City; and many end up skipping on ‘boring ol’ Hue’ altogether to set up camp at Hoi An, Danang, or even Dalat instead, thereby missing out on one of the most historically atmospheric experiences of a lifetime.

The essentials of Hue won’t take a resourceful traveller more than two days for acquaintance, so if you too, are painfully conflicted about including Hue in your Vietnam plans, let the following be excuses for you not to miss out on this picturesque heart of Indochina – no matter how tight you claim your itinerary is.

5. Challenge Yourself On the DMZ Trail.

I use the word ‘Challenge’ quite sparingly because in all honesty, I wouldn’t recommend this tour to anyone who hasn’t got a single ounce of historical bone in their body. This really isn’t one of those ‘trip for the masses’ kind of tourist activity, and spending six hours on the road for less than two hours of accumulated sightseeing will make you want to torch every travel website that ever recommended this Trail as a must-see. For those who are remotely interested though, a typical DMZ Trail takes you through various significant milestones from one of the World’s longest and fiercest battles; and involves setting out at 6-7 in the morning (yes, you read that right), followed by a three-hour drive to your first pit-stop, during which you will see absolutely and positively nothing related to the War in between. The road trip boredom pays off though, because some of the rare sights of this Trail include visits to the ex-Marine and Combat Bases; a trip to the complex networks of civilian Tunnels that once housed an entire community of sixty families and even saw the birth of seventeen children; as well as various photo stops at past outposts and even the symbolic river that once marked the borders of between North and South Vietnam.

The brutal reality of this Trail is that if you aren’t particularly interested in war history or are a war veteran yourself, you will most likely want to strangle yourself at the end of it all, much like how you are probably already feeling right now, having wasted your time reading through this point. But as John Arnold once said, war is marked by “long periods of boredom punctuated by short moments of excitement“, and you can expect no less from this Trail. Brief moments of emotional intensity will come only after endless hours on the road with sights that aren’t even; but if you love the emotional turmoil of Vietnam’s complicated past, then this trip will guarantee you a day rife with penetrating insight and affecting wisdom.

My top tip for going on the DMZ? Stick to the trail. Hue’s Demilitarized Zone remains one of the most densely bombed territoties on Earth to date, so you’ll want to think twice before venturing too far off the beaten track.

4. Discover Vietnam via the Open Doors of Dong Ba Market.

This rambling two-storey market has a little bit of everything you need in order to experience some full-on shopping action. A fundamental platform for all things Vietnamese, Dong Ba remains the country’s largest market to date, with stalls retailing anything from traditional pottery, textiles, bronzed goods, hardware, and a whole myriad of other handcrafted products; to authentic roadside delights like clam rice, beef pho, shrimp cakes, rice rolls, black bean puddings, chendol, glutinous balls, and a whole truckload more.

Even with the proliferation of fresher, younger markets and shopping spaces sprouting across the length of Vietnam, none comes close to Dong Ba in representing legitimate Vietnamese distinctiveness amongst its tenant mix. Tourists can see all the typical features of a traditional Vietnamese market here, such as the sampan landing, the bus station, and the bazaars, amongst many other elements; and is a bustling and crowded affair that simply shouldn’t be missed.

My two tips for visiting Dong Ba? Light-hearted bargaining just for the experience (i.e. don’t kill yourself over what will eventually convert to a dollar); and watch your pockets at all times.

3. Cruise Down the Perfume River In A Dragon Boat.

A visit to Hue will not be complete without a dragon boat excursion along the gentle, flowy Perfume River.  This romantic body of water cuts across the entire city of Hue and seeps past many of its beauty spots; and a typical boat ride down this River can take you to various corners of the ancient Citadel or even further-flung places like the Royal Tombs and Bridges. Some routes even allow you to make pit stops at fishing villages to appreciate ceremonial folk paintings, or participate in annual traditional festivals and activities depending on the time of year.

The Perfume River is beautifully atmospheric by day, but like most city waterfronts, it is only when the Sun goes down that the River really comes alive. Luminous lights will cast their saturated neon colours along the water’s rippled surface, and locals and tourists alike will come together to form a pretty buzzing scene along the roadside street vendors and quayfront bars and eateries, making up somewhat for the city’s relatively lacklustre nightlife.

My top tip for a Perfume River Cruise? Be sure to clarify what’s included in your boat fare and what’s not. Most quoted prices in Hue do not include admission fees for sites, so be sure to ask just so everyone’s on the same page.

2. Travel Back In Time to Hue’s Regal Past With a Trip to the Forbidden Purple City.

Built not too long ago in 1805, the Forbidden Purple City is essentially a walled fortress of a Palace that is monumental both in size and in stature, consisting of hundreds of rooms, courtyards, and gardens, with as many as ten majestic main gates back in its fully functioning heyday. As it is, the full circumference of this compounds spans about 10km wide, and is ringed by a moat that was meant to serve as protection to the Palace.

Having lived through the worst of the War, much of this Imperial City is now in a dilapidated rubble and many of the original structures within this Palace have been bombed down to irrevocable destruction; and while much effort has been put into restoration over recent years, a sizeable fraction of the grounds is still covered in expansive plains of weedgrass and broken remains, with heavily eroded stone artefacts to serve as remnants of the once-ostentatious Nguyen Dynasty. Nevertheless, this City-within-a-city is still very much a must-see, and it doesn’t take a lot from the imagination to picture the grandeur that once blanketed this very land you have your feet planted upon. If anything, you’ll be honored to know that back in the day, absolutely no one was allowed to cross the gates of this very Forbidden Purple City, save the King himself, his Mother, the Empress, and his entire bevy of concubines and eunuchs.

Here’s a(n) (inconsenquential) tip: trust me, there is absolutely nothing purple about the Forbidden Purple City. Thankfully, this does not make it any less desirable to visit – unless you actually went there hoping to witness some full-on legit Mardi Gras-esque architecture, completely with varying shades of purple from mauve all the way to byzantium (which I kind of (sort of) did, due to the lack of pre-trip research).

1. Live and Die Like Kings: Explore Hue’s Grandest Royal Tombs.

Think greatness. Think vast magnificence. Think all the splendor and richness your mind can muster up, and chances are you’ll probably still be miles away from picturing the actual resplendency that coats the walls of these Royal Tombs.

Just to give you a quick breakdown, there are a total of seven Royal Tombs in Hue today, with three specific ones that stand out as top must-visit destinations in the city regardless. These Tombs were usually commissioned by the Emperors themselves and heavily reflected their individual personalities, and some were so excessively luxuriant that its completion date far prevailed the Emperor’s lifespan.

Be prepared for a full onslaught of courtyards and pavilions filled with intricately-carved stone animals, terracotta soldiers, and mandarins. Discover a city within a city within a city, which one particular Tomb is, considering that it was designed to house Emperor Tu Duc’s 100 concubines – none of whom ever bore him a son. Expect to appreciate a whole spectrum of architectural diversity while you’re on this Tour, because it will take you from accurately symmetrical staunch traditionalism, to an awkward fusion of 1800s east-meets-west decor influences.

And if you need one final Hue-related tip, here’s one: A city seemingly designed only for history nerds, you’ll be surprised at how fascinated you will get by the vivid past encapsulated within the walls of these Tombs. Unlike the DMZ Trail which really is a little more catered for niche followers, the architectural elegance and rustic beauty of Hue’s Royal Tombs will knock the socks off even the most discerning traveller.

With a historical diversity this deep-rooted and strong, the beating heart of Hue pulsates from its Citadels to its war-torn beaches, holding an unrivalled place in the nation’s history – whether ancient or modern. It is the true quintessence of Vietnam’s past; and what the city lacks in vibrancy and touristic appeal, it makes up for with its richly embedded bygones and battle scars. Often, many travellers allocate minimal time in Hue due to its colourless and tokenistic presentation, and afterwards label it as a disappointment; but what an unjustified error of judgment that is, because when it comes to Hue, the concept of beauty is more of an acquired effort than anything else; and with a little more time, research, and heart, it becomes almost effortless to fall deeply in love with this alluring city’s present and past.

---

Try to enjoy Hue.

I know I did.