More than ever in this whirlwind of a fast-lived world, Bhutan is standing out as a sanctuary for reflection, quietude, and unhurried rituals. It is a travel destination made literally for- at the risk of sounding ubiquitous- moments; where the chaos of our modern life is meant to fade away and our hearts immediately engulfed by a monastic calm. But, like many places worth visiting, this tiny landlocked country the size of a whispered secret is neither easy to get into nor out of (both literally and figuratively); and sometimes, this very labyrinthine journey— fraught with uncertainty and confusion and the frenetic energy of a traveler who has taken one too many missteps— can feel like a cruel irony pulling us back into the very chaos we came here to escape.

Right off the bat, there are only two airlines that fly into Bhutan- both government-owned- and they all land in that one and single airport we call Paro (despite the country having three more). This means no matter how evocative of an itinerary you have on your hands, the flexibility of your plans is tightly bound by the same start and finish point… which mightn’t sound so tragic, until- you find out that the cascade of regulations that has swept through the country’s tourism landscape following the pandemic has resulted in such a deluge of conflicting information available online that it is half-guaranteed to turn even the most earnest travellers into wearied web wanderers, questioning why they ever thought Bhutan was a good idea in the first place.

But Bhutan is a good idea – Bhutan is always a good idea. The tapestry of obstacles woven into our adventure when we find ourselves in this mountain-guarded kingdom is not something that is there to break us; rather, it is an extended exercise in the lesson of tranquility – perhaps, to teach us that the state of calm is not so much found in the lack of chaos; but rather, in our ability to dance with the disquiet. From figuring out the best time to start our Tiger’s Nest trek, to knowing which side of the prayer flags to walk on (right, it’s always the right), there is no intricacy in Bhutan too small that it is trivial, no detail too unassuming that it’s unworthy of knowing. Every nugget of knowledge here exists for a reason, and the reason is to take us one step closer to navigating its lands with just the kind of resolve it requires.

And so without further ado, as they all say, let’s plunge into the heart of Bhutan and all the bits that really matter, even if they do seem – at first glance- too small to matter.

4. Indian Rupees Are Widely Accepted In Bhutan.

My one and only money advice for travelling to Bhutan is to not change any to Bhutanese Ngultrum unless you absolutely have to- because it is a non-convertible currency and you will lose its full value once you’re out of the country. Use the Indian Rupee instead; it has a 1:1 conversion rate and is accepted everywhere. My only disclaimer is that you’d have to ensure they are in smaller denominations (like 10, 20, 50, and 100 rupee notes); as larger notes may not always be accepted – especially by smaller merchants.

5. SDF – and Not Cost of Living – Is Why Travel to Bhutan Is So Expensive.

Bhutan’s Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) is a daily levy imposed on international visitors to support the country’s development initiatives. It’s currently set at USD100/night (before you balk, you should know this used to be USD200/night); and is usually what makes up the hugest fraction of any given tour price because it reaaaally adds up. Think about it: a 10-day trip to Bhutan would cost a whopping USD1,000 per person, just in taxes. The true price of your other expenses (such as accommodation, food, activities, transport, permits, guiding services etc), is whatever’s the rest.

On that note, Bhutan’s SDF is used to fund, among many other things, infrastructure and social programs that include health care and education – so think about this as your own personal contribution to the country’s growth.

9. Leave the Tiger’s Nest Until The End of Your Trip.

The hike to this monastery is no easy feat. The trail itself is steep, and it can take anywhere between 4 to 6 hours just to go up and back. The trail zigzags up the mountainside, sometimes feeling almost vertical; with rocky, uneven paths that can be exhausting. You’ll also experience temperature fluctuations as you climb, starting in cooler conditions in the morning and potentially dealing with serious sun heat by the time you reach the monastery. And that’s only the beginning. Bhutan’s high altitude, as it is, can be challenging for some (especially those unacclimatized to thinner air); and the Tiger’s Nest, which sits even higher, is stationed precariously on the side of a cliff 3,120 meters above sea level.

Spending some days exploring other parts of the country, getting used to its more rugged terrains, building your stamina- and most importantly, gradually adjusting yourself to its elevations, is a form of preparation for your Tiger’s Nest trek; and in that sense, the more time you have, the better. As far as the Tiger’s Nest goes, tackling it when you’re more prepared physically allows you to enjoy the breathtaking views, rather than struggle with exhaustion or dizziness from the altitude.

(P.S. It is A LOT more common than you think for people to throw in the towel mid-trek; I lost count of the number of people I met on my way down who called it quits halfway through.)

Most importantly though, is that when you are one of the first on the trail, you literally get to enjoy the trail in its best form. The ground is firm, untrampled, and freshly reset from its daily wear-and-tear; and there is no slick mud or deep grooves from countless footsteps that accumulate as the day wears on. This was made extremely apparent to me on my descent, when I found myself slipping and sliding down the chaotic trail that had somehow transformed into a muddy slurry in a short span of five hours. And let’s not forget unpredictable weather conditions too: the later you go, the more chances you’re leaving to nature to ‘bless’ your journey with a late morning/early afternoon shower.

Set forth early. It is truly one of the best ways you can kickstart your journey up to the Tiger’s Nest.

11. Still On the Tiger’s Nest: Do Not Ride the Animals Up or Down.

Since my guide has a track record for stellar advice, here’s me ungatekeeping another: do not ride the animals up or down the trail.

For context, you will be presented with the option to ride ponies or mules up or down from the Tiger’s Nest. This alternative is marketed as a way to ease the strenuous trek, especially for those who may not be accustomed to long hikes or who are seeking a less physically demanding experience – but.

The path leading up to the Tiger’s Nest is steep and narrow, and the trails are often precarious; with limited room to navigate and some serious drops on one side. But don’t take my word for it and pay attention to the animals themselves. For some reason, they are conditioned to walk right at the edge of the trail, which, I don’t need to tell you, is incredibly dangerous given the mise-en-scène of things. A misstep or a sudden movement – something that is not even within your control- could lead to a fall that will be fatal. This is especially fraught if the trail conditions are muddy and worn out for the day.

12. Stock Up On Medication You Think You’ll Need.

While Bhutan has pharmacies and healthcare facilities, the range of medications available are limited, especially in rural areas. On top of pre-existing conditions, you should also prepare for altitude sickness (get Diamox); and nausea (the roads are often long and twisty and bumpy). I’m not particularly susceptible to travel sickness, but even I almost threw up coming down the winding trail from Dochula Pass.

13. Consider Eastern Bhutan.

The biggest mistake I made travelling in Bhutan was to stick to the beaten path.

Perhaps the most worn-out travel route in this country is Paro-Punakha-Thimphu, and I fell for it like a moth to a flame. I loved my time in Bhutan, don’t get me wrong; but as someone who prefers seeing less ‘cosmetic’ moments when I travel, I couldn’t shake off the feeling that something was fundamentally missing from my experience. It just didn’t feel, whole.

Post-trip research revealed that perhaps Eastern Bhutan was better suited for me instead, where the landscapes are less touched by tourism and tradition burns a little more vibrant. There are remote villages, local markets, ancient customs still practiced in the open – and honestly, I couldn’t have thought of a more authentic way to absorb Bhutan than that.

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