A Pilgrimage for the Heart: A 15 Hour Train Ride from Stockholm to Kiruna
As if on cue, my heart rumbles.
This. This fifteen-hour train ride that is about to weave its way from the bustling heart of Stockholm to the enchanting wilderness of Kiruna, is the main catalyst behind my decision to hop on two planes- spend a total of seventeen hours in the air with another three in transit- just to reach the far ends of the hemisphere and indulge in a fleeting dalliance with the rustic North.
Before, I was still in two minds, plagued by the nitty gritty and my subconscious furtively- and constantly- eschewing me out of the idea of Sweden. It was cold, it was costly, and it was foreign in a way that was twenty notches out of my comfort zone… and yet, a rebellious fragment of my heart refused to let up. My recent inclination towards unhurried travelling has left me all but dreaming of semi-isolation in lands unknown, where no one runs after buses and obsesses bout races; and all petty pains aside – if a fifteen-hour train ride through a tapestry of snow isn’t one that fits this bill… then what is there left in this world that ever will?
I’m not much of a technical documentarian and so, regrettably, I will fail at providing intricate step-by-steps on what to do or how to prep for this wild ride*. But, I can tell your heart what to expect. For fifteen hours, landscapes upon landscapes will unfurl, like a giant portrait of untouched lands. You will dance through forests, traipse past villages, skim alongside valleys and peaks, all set against a snowy canvas; and with each passing mile, you will feel your soul expand and its weight dissipate – strangely, both at the same time.
*although I will still try, nevertheless; later below.
And if you’re boarding the evening train, expect to wake up to a radiant spectacle unfolding across the horizon, also known as the Nordic sunrise. Indigo in pre-dawn light, the sky will be akin to a fire rekindling its glow, awakening- much like your heart- in hues of orange and gold.
There are many life-changing train rides in the world – but this.
This is the ride that heals.
This is the ride you take to rediscover fragments of yourself. To navigate the labyrinths of your deeper thoughts and restore a sense of tranquility to your soul; all while igniting dormant fires that have been flickering impatiently at the corners of your heart. In the quiet of the journey, you will become a silent explorer – not of a particular path or destination – but of yourself, and your own magical wonders brewing within. This same journey could be done with a one-hour flight; but anyone who chooses that option leaves an unnecessary carbon footprint – and more importantly, misses experiencing a disarming sense of wonder and powerlessness in feeling something so much greater than ourselves.
And so you will disembark, some fifteen hours later, into crisp -8°C air that smells of smoked wood and peace; feeling like you have just completed a life-changing cross-country marathon – and in the best possible way, you probably did.
MY STOCKHOLM – KIRUNA SPOTIFY PLAYLIST
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HOW I BOOKED
On SJ‘s website. Mine was the 6.10pm departure, which, if I’m not wrong, is the only train that goes directly from Stockholm to Kiruna. (Most other departures will include a stop, which can significantly increase your travel time to a maximum of 21 hours.)
WHEN I BOOKED
About 60 days before departure for best rates.
If you’re eyeing the 6.10pm train, you’ll really have to book early – seats on this route sell out super fast.
WHAT I BOOKED
The Private Sleeping Compartment, which worked out to about USD300. I highly recommend this if you value privacy, or have anxiety about leaving your luggage out of sight for fifteen hours straight.
On a side note, this compartment is made to sleep 3 pax, so if you’re travelling in a pack, you can share this compartment with 2 other people.
WHICH SIDE TO BOOK
The left, for the best views. All sleeping compartments (including berths/couchettes) are situated on the left side of the train- but if you’re getting a seat, you might want to pick one that’s on the left if it helps.
WHERE I STAYED IN KIRUNA
At Husky Dreams. Read more about my experience HERE!
Enjoy your fifteen hour train ride to Kiruna. I know I really did.
Comments
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shafinah.j
it is indeed! truly one of the best train rides i have ever had the privilege to experience 💖
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Jan
Great blog post! I understand the beauty of the ride feasting your eyes all the time for 15 hours! The landscape view would be like a talented artist’s canvas painting. Good tip to book the train seats on the left hand side for better views. I have traveled in Sweden but only north until Rattivik and Mora after which we turned west towards Norway. Someday, I will do this train ride.! 🙂
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shafinah.j
oh that sounds lovely! i’d love to explore further up north – thanks for the heads-up, i’ll bookmark those places and check them up! 💕
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Marilyn
What an amazing journey to wake and see such breathtaking scenery. Train travel is a wonderful way to see and appreciate the surroundings.
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shafinah.j
it really is! 🥰
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A Capone Connection
This sounds like a lovely experience. I’ve been wanting to take a trip by train at some point because it sounds like it would be much better than sleeping on a plane (if you get the sleeper car as you suggested). Thanks so much for the tips!
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shafinah.j
you’re welcome – and yes definitely, the flight will get you there faster but i think the route to kiruna is a whole experience on its own so there’s no point missing it just to get there faster! (unless you’re pressed for time)
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Taylor
This is so poetic and definitely makes me want to experience this. I also love that you included your playlist!
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shafinah.j
aww thanks Taylor you’re truly the sweetest!!💕💕 i always kept the arctic north at the back of my mind while growing that play list over the past 7 years – i’m so happy you enjoyed it! 🙂
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Linda (LD Holland)
I do love train rides. This 15 hour trip from Stockholm to Kiruna. What great scenery along the way. And a sleeping coach would be a great way to relax. Good to know that they are on the side with the views.
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shafinah.j
hope it comes in handy for you one day! 🥰
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Angela Price
I love a good train journey and this one sounds great, especially for the never-ending views. It’s good to know the best side to book, it must be frustrating if you don’t know this tip and turn up only to be given a space on the other side!
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shafinah.j
indeed! booking any space in the compartment would do the trick though, cos they’re all situated on the left side of the train! :):)
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shafinah.j
it is – and one of the most unique experiences ive ever had!
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shafinah.j
aw thanks for your kind words Marga! 🌞
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Gladis
Wow. It’s breathtaking based on your description. Definitely adding this on my list. Thank you for sharing your experience.
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shafinah.j
You’re most welcome, Gladis – glad to do so! ✨
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shafinah.j
Life-changing too, i would add 🥰
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Charlie Karin
I love long train rides when they have awesome views to pass the time! This journey looks stunning and looks like it’s good for the soul! Thanks for the tip about booking to sit on the left hand side 🙂
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shafinah.j
yeah this journey really made me fall in love with long train rides, it felt NOTHING like 15 hours 💖
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Farrah
I love your writing style. :] I’ve been on a train before but typically for no more than 3-4 hours at a time — this sounds like it would be a lovely experience!
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shafinah.j
gosh thanks Farrah for your kind words, they mean the world to me! ❤️❤️ I honestly thought it’d kill me but it ended up feeling nowhere near 15hours – in fact, i was sorry when i had to get off 😅
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Kiki
This sounds like a wonderful experience. I completely agree on taking the whole compartment. We once travelled in such a compartment with 4 other people and it was the most uncomfortable night journey ever. The next time we took the whole compartment and it was the best. Love your pictures.
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shafinah.j
oh gosh – 5 people in a compartment sounds like really something, i bet you came out of that with stories to tell!
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shafinah.j
it was indeed! ☆
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Lucia
I love train travel but this ride is breathtaking! The views are incredible and I totally agree with you, this is the ride that heals. Awesome photos
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shafinah.j
Thank you Lucia! Definitely my top recommended train ride for anyone (the one from Finland’s Helsinki to Rovaniemi is pretty swell too)! 🥰🥰
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Bekah
Sounds absolutely breathtaking! I’ve been on long train rides before, but never ones that I would describe as healing. I’d love to do this one day!