[Post-Edit Note: All pictures and written content in this post was originally created in 2017, unless otherwise credited.]

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Change is coming. Slowly. But surely.

When Western sanctions against Myanmar lifted in 2012, the country fast became a magnet for intrepid travelers. Enchantingly fresh-faced and mysterious, people came from all over to witness Southeast Asia at its most untouched, an enigmatic land off the beaten track where only a rare few have ventured. It was frustrating, fascinating, and nothing short of exhilarating – this once-isolated, off-limits country now reintroduced to the world as a glittery wonder of sorts.

It was nothing like what anyone would have expected to see from a country fresh out of a brutal 50-year oppression: pristine white beaches, dazzling Buddhist architecture, a harmonious colonial life – to say the world was surprised at what it discovered when Myanmar’s doors first swung open would be putting it mildly… and yet, fast forward seven years later, even as travellers from all over the world are flooding in and universal interest continues to reach an all-time high; the same age-old question about Myanmar somehow remains latched to the tip of everyone’s tongue.

Is it safe?

Personally, it’s a resounding yes… but the right and honest answer to this question is that the majority of the country is safe – and then there are parts that aren’t. And what makes it safe or unsafe is largely dependent on how you choose to travel. Myanmar is still a military-driven country; there is still political tension and civil unrest; certain townships are still very heavily gripped by unimaginable violence. And yet, on the flip side of that, you’ll too find sparkling lakes, gold-spired temples, and a million magical sunrises and sunsets.

So perhaps the question to ask isn’t so much about whether or not the country is safe, but rather, what we can do to travel right when we’re considering Myanmar. And hopefully, one of these following points below will help you find the answers to the questions you never knew you had to ask where glistening land is concerned.

1. Best Months to Visit

Technically between October and February, because that’s the country’s driest and coolest season of the year. Avoid March to May because those are the months when it gets really hot – and like any other Southeast Asian country, it gets ridiculously humid too. (In fact, I was there in September and even then, found the humidity to be on the murderous side – and I’m from Singapore.)

Many travel guides will also warn you against the period from June to October because that’s monsoon season; and in Myanmar, this means torrential rains, typhoons, and even fatal floods that are not as uncommon as the gravity of it might make it sound.

2. Visa Matters

Myanmar pre-2012 was a nightmare for travellers to even consider – but today, the country stands as a bastion of democracy and diplomatic warmth: Passport holders of Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam, Japan, and South Korea do not require a visa for entry into the country.

If you do not fall into any of the above, fret not because the tourist e-visa can be easily applied for online, with absolutely no need to head anywhere (except perhaps to the printer’s afterwards for printing once it’s approved). The tourist e-visa costs USD50, and is valid for 28 days.

3. Which Airport Is the Right Airport?

Technically, Myanmar has three international airports, but Naypyidaw is so unheard of (both the airport and the town) that it probably makes sense to just narrow our focus on Yangon and Mandalay instead.

It’s not so much about which is better, than what your itinerary looks like. Yangon, being the unofficial capital, is definitely more well-connected internationally; and of course, gives you immediate access if your trip begins with the main Yangon sites, Bago, or even Ngapali Beach. But if the legendary Bagan is featured somewhere in your plans, then Mandalay is definitely a better option, sitting only 4 hours away (Yangon, on the other hand, is more than 8 hours away from Bagan). Mandalay is also more frequented by the full suite of Southeast Asian budget airlines, although, the last I checked, I believe Scoot checks in at Yangon too.

Personally, if you’re a city dweller, I think coming in via Yangon somehow acclimatizes you to the country better with its heady mix of tradition and the modern day-to-day; but if you don’t mind being (or perhaps even want to be) thrust headfirst into the tenacious spirit of the Burmese, then I believe few can make a stronger case than Mandalay.

4. Tightening the Shoestring

As affordable as any country seemingly is, we all know how things can add up when you’re on the go. Personally, I find that Myanmar already ranks as the most cost-friendly Southeast Asian country… but if you’re looking at tightening those strings just a littleeeeeeeeeee more, here are a few quick tips that will go a long way:

– Stick to backpacker’s hostels and shared accommodation – you can find single beds for less than USD10 per person/night.
– Exchange your USDs at the airport because you won’t find better rates in town. Also, Myanmar only accepts USDs in practically pristine condition – so no folds, tears, or even pen scribbles.
– Eat street food whenever possible. And beers can generally be bought for less than USD1 so unless you’re in some place swanky, look out for establishments that are overcharging.
– Within towns, travel by buses or tuk-tuks instead of taxis; and when going from one town to the next, look for shared taxis or vans instead of flying – although this means a lot more wasted time.
– Opt for e-bikes when exploring temple ruins.
– Haggle. Always haggle.

Also, while we’re still on the topic of money…

5. Money (That) Matters

Generally, both the Kyat (Myanmar’s local currency) and USDs are widely accepted everywhere, especially in tourist-saturated places – but I tend to prefer dealing in local currency wherever possible because 9 out of 10 times, it costs you less when you pay in Kyat than in USD. Just be conscious of how much you change at one time though- the Kyat is virtually worthless out of Myanmar so you don’t want to be stuck with too much at the end of your trip. A good way to go about it is to have USD as your base, and then change it in small batches as you work your way through your travels.

Also, do not resort to black market money changers. These are money changers that can be found all over local markets (or anywhere else dodgy), so don’t fall unsuspecting victim. Stick to authorized changers, banks, or even hotels – they sometimes offer better rates than the black market even.

P.S: A note to my fellow Singaporeans, the SGD was accepted at every authorized money changer I came across, so please don’t worry about having to change your SGDs to USDs first before coverting that to Kyat – you will lose money unneccessarily through multi-conversion.

6. Choosing The Right SIM (Card, That Is)

The general rule here is, if the internet is fast, the coverage is poor. Likewise, if the coverage is wide, expect frustrating internet speeds that will likely drive you into a social media detox.

There are currently 3 players in Myanmar’s telecommunications industry; hopefully, this helps you pick out the right SIM card based on your needs:

• MPT
  ✓ pioneer of Myanmar’s telco industry
  ✓ widest coverage in the country
  ✓ uninterrupted access when travelling between cities
  ☐ okay internet
  ✕ most expensive
  ✕ government-owned

• Ooredoo
  ✓ fastest internet in the country
  ✓ attractive data bundles
  ✕ terrible coverage beyond main cities

• Telnor
  ✓ wider coverage
  ✓ cheapest SIM cards in the country
  ☐ good cellular coverage but so-so internet access

On a side note, Myanmar’s wifi at hotels and public places is a character building experience; don’t expect to get much done if you intend that to be your only source of connection through your stay.

 7. Shwedagon Pagoda Hacks

This is Myanmar’s most scared site so if you find yourself in Yangon, chances are this is probably going to land somewhere on your list.

The Shwedagon Pagoda is open daily from 4 a.m. – 10 p.m, and if you’re looking for that perfect Instagram shot sans unexpected photobombers, you know the sacrifice to make. Sunrise and sunset gives you the perfect glorious golden lights that you need if you’re doing photography; and afternoons are the least crowded – although, those are usually the most scorchingly hot hours of the day and that makes the marble floor feel like coal against your bare feet.

Be expected to be flocked by ‘tour guides’ the second you enter – most are official and licensed, some not so. Either way, you’re safe as long as you agree on a price before taking on their services. A reasonable asking price should fall somewhere around USD5-6. It’s also okay to say no if you prefer to explore the grounds on your own.

If you’re looking for the full-blown festive fanfare, mark your calendar for Thingyan, Thadingyut, and Tazaungdaing as those are Buddhist holidays which usually see the temple filled with people and a serious bustling of religious activities. But if you’re trying to avoid humans altogether, there is a lower footpath encircling the compound that will give you the respite you crave (on a non-peak day, that is). This pathway is accessible from all four entrances but isn’t as commonly used, so it’s ideal for a sneak selfie or two. 

There’s an approximate USD8 cash-only entrance fee for foreigners; and also, remember to consider your dressing before visiting as the Pagoda is still essentially a place of worship and commands respect. Male or female, clothing has to cover the knees and shoulders; and if you didn’t pack anything that can do the job, don’t worry because a traditional sarong-style garment is available for rent at a very small fee.

Another thing that’s also available at a small fee is the ‘parking’ of your shoes at the entrance. No footwear (not even socks or stockings) is allowed in the grounds, and there is a counter to leave your shoes before you enter (It’s based on a number system so no one’s going to be able to take your shoes ‘by accident’). Alternatively,  you may also leave them unattended at the entrance.

If I may offer you one piece of advice if you’re coming here, it’s to trade your shoes for sandals or flip flops instead. It’s just easier to remove and put back on; not to mention that the soles of your feet can also get a little grimy after walking around barefoot… and I don’t know about you, but I find it kind of icky to stick that back into your socks, which then goes into your shoes.

But that’s just me.

8.  The Need for Ngapali

Nobody thinks of Myanmar and imagines it smeared with pretty slices of coast, but the truth is that it actually is, and Ngapali just might be the prettiest one of them all. It’s Myanmar’s coastline at its most voluptuous, with palm-fringed walking trails; a friendly solitude to the idyllic provincial atmosphere; and of course, home of the instafamous hanging palm tree.

Despite its growing popularity, Ngapali is still a relative hassle to get to – but definitely worth every single frown and frustration. Buses are only possible from Yangon and costs around USD9 per trip per person, but unfortunately takes a nightmarish 15 hours to reach. There are direct flights both from Yangon (a whopping 15 minutes) and Bagan (90 minutes); but those cost upwards of USD70.

9. Buses: The Super-stition

If you ever do decide to hop on that long and winding bus ride (after all, nobody’s Southeast Asia trip is complete without one), never make the mistake of asking your driver what time you’re expected to arrive. Apparently, asking that will invoke evil spirits which may then prevent you from reaching your destination; so if you ever asked something to that extent when you were in Myanmar and got promptly ignored, don’t worry. The driver was only trying to protect you and everyone else on the bus.

10.  Do NOT Skip Bagan

There are more than 2,200 temples in all of Bagan, which gives you more than 2,200 reasons why you shouldn’t leave this enchanting temple town out of your itinerary no matter what anyone says. This is essentially Angkor Wat without the crowds; and out of all my stops in Myanmar, Bagan was by far my absolute favourite.

Don’t try to see or do everything when you’re here though; you’ll not only be exhausted, but driven to a fatigued jadedness that might ruin the rest of your trip. I strongly recommend serious pre-trip research: list out the activities that interest you most, the temples that you want to see most, and then build your itinerary from there.

11.  Major Bagan No-No: Scaling Temples

This on-again off-again ban has stirred so much controversy in the travelling circuit that I wouldn’t be surprised if the present decision gets reversed again some time in the future. For now though, climbing temples (which is often done for sunrise and sunset shots) is officially banned, because the country is trying to keep damage on their temples to a minimum and it doesn’t help when literally hundreds of travellers attempt to scale these fragile seven-hundred-year-old structures on a daily basis.

It’s really bizarre because you actually come across travel bloggers as recent as 2019 doing full articles on how you can get away with scaling Bagan temples now despite it being against the law, with superbly oddball suggestions like ‘make sure no locals or police can see you’.

It’s jawdroppingly irresponsible and just really, really ill advice, so please only do what you feel and think is right. There are plenty of ways to get those insta-worthy shots: invest in a drone, go on a hot air balloon ride – make a visit to the Aureum which has a viewing tower that gives you a sweeping view of the entire town. I know none of these will give you a ‘Look I’m on top of a temple‘ shot, but at least you know you did your part to preserve some really old, precious, fragments of history.

12.  Do Not Visit Restricted Areas

And while we’re on the topic of adhering to laws.

Myanmar is fresh out of unrest and even today, faces tension in many areas. Even reporters who went poking around Rakhine after the shameful Rohingya ethnic cleansing in 2017 weren’t spared – so don’t expect to be too either if you’re going down the same route. It’s tempting, especially if you’ve got strong explorer’s blood and Myanmar’s just so temptingly new to the travelling world- but don’t. Sometimes they’re protected tribal areas, sometimes there are religious or political conflicts; and sometimes they’re just geographically impassable.  If you’re hitting a grey area, check your government’s travelling advice sites. It should highlight no-go zones, caution areas, and the general level of safety for travel to that part of town.

13. Respect the Religion

Sometimes, the temples are so overwhelmingly breathtaking that it’s easy to forget that they are not just a place of interest but, after all, a place of worship. Always remove all footwear and hats; cover yourself appropriately; and never touch, sit near, or climb on Buddha statues that have been placed on a raised platform (or any platform, really).

Also, always check that you have permission to take photographs before you do, and never point at anything with your index finger. Remember, it is technically the law in Myanmar to respect Buddhism, so try to stay away from doing anything potentially offensive lest they see it as an intentional act of insult to their religion. There have been cases of tourists literally being deported just for sporting tattoos of Buddha on their legs, so you can trust that no one’s in the mood for a joke where this is concerned.

14. Respect the People

That said, respect the locals too. In fact, this is a rule that should be applied universally no matter which country you’re in: the locals are not obliged to be your photography objects.

Imagine tourists in your home country coming uncomfortably close to snap an obvious close-up shot of you, their giant cameras shoved in your face just because they’re so fascinated by how bizarrely different you are from them – how would that make you feel?

It’s not that you flat-out can’t, but always ask for permission and if the situation allows, leave a small donation or buy something to support their livelihood. Monks, in particular, are considered highly disrespectful to photograph without permission; so unless they’re just a small component of a wider landscape, do not make subjects out of them.

15. Do Not Give Children Money

This is a hard (and possibly controversial) one, but if you perpetrate this industry, it only continues to keep these children on the streets, generation after generation. None of that is the intended outcome of course, but when kids find a means of living through begging, they ultimately form the conclusion that school is unnecessary and they stay in begging – because it’s easier.

If you really want to help, give back to their communities instead of individual people – you’ll get more mileage on your buck and more importantly, they get the kind of help that they really need. The Myanmar Charity Group is as good a place to start if any – this non-profit redistributes donations to charities across the country, with a strong focus on the education of homeless children and orphans.

16. Lower Your Expectations on the Food

I hate to be the bearer of unpopular opinion, but, unless Myanmar’s the very first Asian country you’re visiting, you may want to recalibrate your expectations on ‘Asian’ food while you’re here.

If you’re coming in from Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Hong Kong, India, or even Vietnam, harbouring hopes of similar gastronomic adventures, expect to be sorely disappointed by Burmese food. In a gist, Burmese cuisine lacks the innovation, depth, variety, and flavours of its neighbours, and you will find that when it comes to this section of travel, Myanmar simply cannot match up. Perhaps some time in the near future it’d start giving one of those countries a good run for its money, but for now, the food culture is still in its freshest, most infantile stage.

That is not to say that you can’t find a decent meal in the entire country – it’s just that it’s probably not going to be as characteristic, and neither will it be as effortless as, say, turning a corner and chancing upon a wonderful street stall or bistro.

17. The Betel Nut Phenomenon

Myanmar may be on the cusp of great transformation, but some traditions look set to stay – at least for the near future to come.

If you’ve ever been to Myanmar (or seen pictures of locals) and wondered about those red-stained lips and teeth, kun ja‘s the culprit.

Small parcels of tobacco, areca nuts, slaked lime and optional spices, wrapped in the vivid green leaves of the betel plant, are ubiquitous across the nation; and it’s consumed in a literal chew-it-up-then-spit-it-out fashion. Kun ja is lauded as a real pick-me-up and is known to be able to increase your alertness, boost energy, freshen the breath, and even control pain – but the real Science behind it has proven that prolonged consumption leads directly to addiction, deeply stained gums and mouth cancer.

18. The Best Sunsets

Some of the best sunsets in the world will have you casting your eyes towards Myanmar; and if you’re headed that way for this very reason, you cannot miss out on these iconic spots:

• Mount Popa (Bagan)
• Inle Lake (Yangon)
• Kyaiktiyo Pagoda/The Golden Rock (Mon State)
• Shwedagon Pagoda (Yangon)
• U-bein Bridge (Mandalay)
• Viewing Tower (Bagan)

19. Getting Off the Beaten Track

For a country that dazzles as much as Myanmar, you can be sure that even beyond the usual Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay, lies some of the most adrenaline-charged escapes that will prove the perfect playground for any alternative explorer.

If you’re seeking something more varied than Myanmar’s Big 3 (which will be Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay), look up the following alternative towns instead.

• Hispaw
• Maymyo
• Mawlamyaing
• Ngwe Saung
• Loikaw **

A gentle reminder to keep in mind Point #12 when exploring townships not typically known to tourism.

20. Literature to Get You In the Mood

The Glass Palace, Amitav Ghosh
A historical novel that paints a picture of the British Empire in Southeast Asia through the eyes of a young Indian boy who has come to Burma with his family. An interesting rags-to-riches perspective of Myanmar through the eyes of an immigrant that is just as riveting as it is informative.

Burma Chronicles, Guy Delisle
A super fun graphic novel depicting the life of a young Canadian family trying to navigate their way through  Burma.

From the Land of Green Ghosts, Pascal Khoo Thwe
An astonishing story of a young man’s upbringing in a remote tribal village in 1930s Burma, and his journey from a strife-torn country to the tranquil quads of Cambridge.

The Piano Tuner, Daniel Mason
In 1886, piano tuner Edgar Drake receives an unusual request to leave his quiet English life and travel to the jungles of Burma to repair a rare piano. So begins an extraordinary journey overland to Burma accompanied by an enchanting yet elusive woman.

The Road to Wanting, Wendy Law-Yone
A celebrated story of Na Ga, a young girl from Burma’s North Eastern border region searching for a better life. Beset by poverty and the malaise of rural life, she is swept up by various apparent rescuers, who only lead her to dissolution and further despair. An insightful depiction of life on the fringes of Burmese society, whilst also being a deeply personal exploration of moral values and depression, which transcends all national borders.

21. Starting Your Day Early = Starting Your Day Right

Probably one of the simplest ways to ace your Myanmar trip is to start your day early. You will have all the best attractions to yourself without the crowds; you will get to experience the country at its quietest, before the noise of the daily hustle and bustle sets in, and when the afternoon Sun comes burning down on you mid-day, you’ll already be halfway through your itinerary and be able to afford those couple of hours’ break.

This is something you will want to pay particular heed to while in Bagan – the town has some of the most devastatingly spectacular sunrises, with incredible saturations of crimson and gold spilling over its dusky hot air balloon-dotted, pagoda-silhouetted skyline that makes for the most picturesque thing you’ll ever see in the whole of Myanmar.

22. Beware of Temple Fatigue

Temple fatigue is real. There is such a thing as ‘too many temples’, and especially if you’re coming in from like Laos, Cambodia, or Thailand, you may want to take extra care not to suffer an overdose from your daily temple run.

One highly effective tip is to avoid box ticking – you don’t have to see every temple on the list. Sometimes, less is more and besides, when it comes to having to choose from more than two thousand temples in one township, you know you can afford to be picky.

And don’t feel guilty about it – this happens even to the best of us, so don’t read it any other way.

23. Travelling Ethically In Myanmar

Do not take government tours. Avoid government-affiliated transport. Stay away from government-run hotels and properties.

If you’re planning a trip to Myanmar but experiencing an ethical dilemma, alleviate it by boycotting government establishments. It’s still a hybrid regime, which means that any money that goes to them does, ultimately, get partially filtered to their military; but please refrain from a blanket boycott either. Staying away completely does not help the locals at all – many of whom depend on tourism for their livelihood. Instead, look at how you can spread your money around in a way that benefits the community directly. Look for travel agencies that arrange for donations or are tied to social development programs; eat street food; buy from locals; stay at private guesthouses who employ locals. Also, be careful about the kinds of tours that promise you ‘a glimpse into ethnic minorities’, especially the women of Shan. Are they really helping the community, or are they simply exploiting the minorities for their own gain?

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Enjoy Myanmar. I know I did.