[Post-Edit Note: All pictures and written content in this post was originally created in 2018, unless otherwise credited.]

.

No matter how discerning you are as a person or how much cynicism you have for things that either fit too squarely into the common world or differ too widely, you come to Bhutan and it’s hard not to be… touched – even if it is just for a moment.

And so Day 2 begins.

---

Let’s just say no sane person begins their day with a hike willingly, and yet that’s exactly what happens every other day when you’re in Bhutan (as a tourist, I assume).

The Tango Institute of Buddhist Studies, which was the first stop of the second day, is an ancient monastery located about 14km away from Thimphu city; right on top of a hill that leaves you with no other commute option except for your legs. It’s about a 45-minute walk, up slope all the way; but the route is well-paved and you run across plenty of wise mantra signs (and dogs) at every turn, so it kind of makes up for the early morning overactivity in a way. We even ran into some really aesthetically pleasing Langurs on the way down, which I truly appreciated because, monkey obssession.

The sense of seclusion begins at once en route to Tango; and coupled with its serene ambience, the entire experience is a motion postcard of sylvan loveliness. The monastery, which was constructed in parts between the fifteenth and nineteenth century, is literally ancient in every sense of the word; but today, stands as a University of Buddhism studies for monks.

I could tell you more about the history and architecture of the monastery in excruciating detail until I bore the living daylights out of even the most religiously respectful person; but fact sites like these already exist elsewhere and I think that my intelligence is, once again, better suited for inappropriate questions that everyone else thinks but no one dares ask.

Really terribly filtered questions I asked included:
– Do the monks go out (because, I mean, an hour’s walk just to get out? And then another to get back in? I’d think twice, just saying.)? They do. And they don’t mind the walk. 

– Is there a head monk? Yes.

– How old is the youngest monk? 7.

– Do these…young monks decide to enrol on their own (i.e. or are they forced by their families; which, to my credit, was a part of the question I didn’t actually say but rather, left hanging as an implied question)? The latter happened a lot more in the past. These days, most young boys choose to be monks out of free will and personal inspiration/enlightenment. Very few (if any at all) still follow the tradition of sending at least one son to the monastery for monkhood. 

– Are the scriptures in Sanskrit? All scriptures are in Dzhongka, although admittedly, Sherab himself said it was difficult to understand their chants during the ritual.)

– Do the monks now still know how to read Sanskrit? No.

– Do any monks change their minds about being a monk, after becoming a monk?

I got a weird look for that.

We were lucky enough to make it just in time for a noon prayer ritual – and this must be the, what, second? Third? time I’ve ever sat in on one of these in my entire life?  But I will say, it definitely stood out as the most surreal experience from the rest. First of all, the hall was filled to the brim (I later learned that the monastery had guests, and that they don’t usually conduct such huge attendance); and the chantings were strangely alot more hypnotic in Dzhongka.

Sherab and Jimmy led me to the front of the hall where the two head monks were seated behind a really elaborate desk setting (imagine the court of Justice Bao); and they both blessed us in what felt like a knight ceremony that left me feeling awkward and even somewhat ashamed because, spoiler, I’m not even Buddhist. Were they rolling their eyes in their heads? Mentally chastising me for treating their religion as a spectacle show?  Tourists, I scoffed on their behalf. What a waste of holy water and good blessings. 

---

A quick (and strange) pit stop at the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, more commonly known as the School of 13 Arts and Crafts.

To be painfully honest, this was one of many places that made it to my list of ‘Why Did You Bring Me Here?’; but it doesn’t negate the fact that the Bhutaneses’ talent for the arts is truly out-of-this-world astounding. Kids come here to learn painting, carpentry, carving, sculpture, casting, blacksmithing, bamboo work, gold and silversmithing, weaving, embroidery, masonry, leather work, and paper making; and all those statues and things that I see that I have always cynically insisted were factory-made with a mold, I saw sculpted and shaped and perfected right before my very eyes.

Later on, I learned that these arts were critical to Bhutan because it is the very thing preserving their heritage and keeping it alive. I mean, all that intricate architectures and deity statues and massive roof-to-floor canvas paintings aren’t exactly things you can outsource to any country I guess. And besides, the only ones who would understand their culture through and through, are themselves.

And so for that, I truly applaud this Institute – although, I still do wonder why I was brought here.

---

Somewhere in between our busy second day, we somehow managed to squeeze a quick visit to the Takin Preserve.

Takins are somewhat like mini-yaks/obese rams, and unlike what the name suggests, no, the place does not sell them in glass jam jars. This preserve is an animal sanctuary that houses the country’s national mascot; and it was a preserve that caused quite the national dilemma when it first came about just thirteen years ago because, with Buddhism as its core belief, the idea of trapping animals in an enclosed area just wasn’t natural and in line with the religion’s teachings. (Fun fact: precisely because of this belief, Bhutan remains one of the few rare countries left in this world that does not have a zoo).

But anyways, because the Takins were roaming and getting too close to the city and people, the King eventually had no choice but to approve of one; which was how this came to be.

Again, another location that made it to the ‘Why Did You Bring Me Here?‘ list because one, we spent less than 10 minutes here; and two, even people on restraining orders against you will come closer than the Takins do. i.e. you will leave this place with virtually no good photo to speak of.

But just in case you’re curious, this is how a Takin looks like.

Quite something, huh?

---

Inserting a breather here so that we may all pause to appreciate just how much this dog gives me James Dean chills.

---

Day 2 culminates at Simply Bhutan, a living museum aimed at giving you a crash course on Bhutan’s history and culture. It’s a project that also helps job-seeking youths gain skills through workshops and training so that they get better employment opportunities; and to be honest, I think anyone on the street can do this place justice better than I am so I am going to stop talking.

Don’t forget to stop by a small little booth in the courtyard where you’ll definitely meet Pema Tshering, a guy with Cerebral Palsy who’s so damn spectactular you’ll have to meet him for yourself. He’s always up for a photo and a ‘hi’ so please don’t be shy. He was the highlight of my day because he’s just so full of everything happy.

For now though, you can read more about him here and feel sorry about how terribly you’ve under applied yourself in life.

Not something I’m entirely proud of, but I was actually kind of missing city comforts and first-world luxuries in Thimphu, which was how I googled for and tracked down Ambient Cafe. It’s located on the second floor along the string of shophouses in the city centre – and it sounds like something you might miss if you don’t keep your eyes open. But it’s really not that hard to locate.

I didn’t go full-on hipster cafe hopping so I can’t exactly tell if this is good or bad in any context; but personally, I found the food to be so-so. The ambience is definitely fantastic though – right up the alley of any cafe in Singapore.

I’m tempted to say Go check it out, but I really don’t think I should be recommending people to be visiting cafes of all things if they ever find themselves in Bhutan.

So. Yeah. Don’t.

---