Like an untethered live wire, Istanbul sizzles at a single touch. Everywhere, posh bistros brush against the likes of frills-free food carts, sacred thousand-year-old structures sit side by side with youthful architecture, calls to prayer compete tirelessly with the sound of car horns – and all the while, endless strings of curio sellers make attempts at your attention with small talk and conversation, despite your best efforts to avoid eye contact and chatter for your own sanity.

On the streets, motorbikes whiz through laneways with an almost reckless abandon; Arabesque music pours out into the city’s traffic from behind the rolled-down windows of yellow taxis – they are offering rides to mesmerized tourists, so distracted by the pulse of Istanbul they couldn’t possibly know that their ride would turn out to be neither metered nor ‘market-rate’ – and yet, how does one sidestep this madness? It’s all part of the enigma when you find yourself in the heart of Istanbul. Can you say you’ve been to Istanbul if you’ve never been assaulted in the senses by its sights and sounds? I’m almost inclined to say not.

But yet.. it doesn’t have to be the only way.

To date, I think the one biggest mistake I made in planning my trip to Turkey was to make my first touch point Sultanahmet. My hotel is right smack in the centre of it, literally opposite the Blue Mosque; and upon checking in, I followed this mistake up with an even bigger mistake: I hopped on the Metro and headed straight for Eminonou (where the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar are) – and I did this all on a lovely summer season Sunday.

The result was a horrified me, wrapping up the end of Day One in Istanbul petrified, hair in a bird’s nest mess, desperately looking for a way out. I returned to my hotel room and immediately took to the internet to hunt for quieter parts of Istanbul (this busy-ness can’t be true for the entire city right?), looking for evidence of a local life on the outskirts that was relatively untouched by the chaos of the city centre – and for a while, apart from Balat, I wasn’t sure I would be able to come up with anything more that could fill my six days in Istanbul.

But then slowly the alternatives started to trickle in. First Karakoy, then Ortakoy, then Arnavutkoy and Kuzguncuk and even tiny adorable little Bebek. At some point, I got so bold I ventured far enough down the map to pin off-the-path Kadikoy – so much so that, at the end of it all, I actually found myself wishing I had more days in Istanbul, just so I could properly take my time with each and every single one of these magnificently beautiful enclaves.

If you’re anything like me and can’t hold up against crowds, keep your main sights in Istanbul to a minimal and spend more time in these seven neighbourhoods instead. I wouldn’t skip the madness of Sultanahmet and Eminonou even if I were to turn back time (what can I say, it’s a rite of passage), but I definitely wouldn’t linger as long as I did either. Get a feel of it, and then go. The suburbs of Istanbul is so much richer and immersive as an experience, and if you’re looking for a breath of fresh air to refuel your soul, I really couldn’t recommend them more.

Here’s a TL;DR before we dive in.

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SIDE NOTE: DID YOU KNOW?

On top of the Metro train system that runs through Istanbul, there is also a Public Ferry system that connects all the key waterfronts of Istanbul to one another. Most of the neighbourhoods I’m about to detail here are not reachable by Metro, but, they are all well-serviced by ferry terminals; so do not be intimidated by their location nor distance from where you are. For most part, if you’re staying in the heart of Istanbul’s flurry of tourist actitivity, the nearest ferry terminal to you is Eminonöu; and once you’re there, all these neighbourhoods are extremely convenient to reach.

With that said, let’s begin from the furthest end of it all: Kadikoy.

1. KADIKOY

The first thing you should probably know about Istanbul (and will probably hear alot about too when you’re there) is that there are ‘two sides’ to the city: an Asian side, and an European side. This isn’t so much a racist statement than a geographical one: Turkey is such a uniquely positioned country on the world map that, indeed, the entire country falls within the territory of the Asian continent – save for this one tiny sliver of land, that somehow manages to trickle its way quietly into the skirts of Europe and form what is known colloquially as, the ‘European side of Istanbul’.

This tiny sliver of land, when zoomed in, actually accounts for the majority of Istanbul’s surface area on the map; so while few travellers wander out of the European side of Istanbul since that is primarily where most of the standard sights are, Kadıköy will require you to do just that, as it is situated on the Asian side of the capital and nowhere near where you’ll need to be if you’re strictly on the tourist route.

Don’t worry though, Kadıköy will reward you for straying off the beaten path, and it will reward you richly.

Personally, Kadıköy strikes me as a pared-back version of the Spice & Grand Bazaars combined- and while of course it neither measures up in size nor range, the chill more than makes up for it. It’s a prime example of what can be achieved if you ditch extravagance for simplicity; and even as I arrived newly nervous from only just discovering the Istanbul Ferry line mere minutes ago, the neighbourhood was so hospitable in its vibe that I was immediately put at ease.

VIBE: Vibrant, Artsy, Nostalgic.

DON’T MISS: the historic Kadiköy-Moda Nostaljik Tramway; Kadıköy Market; and Bağdat Caddesi (Baghdad Avenue) if you need to infuse some feel-good vibes from clusters of high-end cafes, boutiques and restaurants.

SKIP IF YOU: are short of time on your itinerary. Kadıköy is a little far off from everything else, so the commute will really weigh down your itinerary especially if you’re already facing the pressure of a tight timeline. I really relish Kadıköy’s heart, but if time is of the essence, it’s probably better to just stick to the neighborhoods that are closer to each other on the European side – if anything, it allows you to strike off more neighbourhoods from your list using the same amount of time.
FERRY TERMINAL: Kadikoy

2. KUZGUNCUK

If there’s even the smallest part of you that is drawn to the vintage aeshetic, figure out how to fit Kuzguncuk into your itinerary. It is small enough to miss if you so much as blink, but the magical feeling you get from exploring its nooks and crannies will singlehandedly make your day.

Seated at the edge of the Asian side of Istanbul, there is an almost romantic sensuality to Kuzguncuk’s landscape; with its wooden Ottoman townhouses and cobblestone streets and sprawling tree-lined boulevards, complete with a smattering of quaint little cafes and retail shops that fall in line to make everything just that bit more cinematic. I arrived here a little before 10 in the morning, just in time to watch this tiny little piece of Istanbul rouse to life – and I just simply couldn’t reconcile the difference between the tranquility of my surroundings vs the chaotic maelstrom of, say, Eminonou or Sultanahmet, lying less than 20 minutes away by ferry. How is this a kept secret from everyone else – how could anyone not know?

On top of its old-world charm, a unique pluralist heritage also dominates the landscape of Kuzguncuk. There are synagogues, two churches, a mosque – even a Jewish cemetery carrying tombstones dating to as far back as the 1800s; there is even a saying about the place that goes: “After an Armenian dinner, meet a Greek woman in a Jewish home” – which speaks not only to the multiculturalism prevalent amongst the people of Kuzguncuk, but also to a multiculturalism that exists within singular individuals of the neighbourhood.

To make the best of your detour here, pair it with a visit to the Beylerbeyi Palace, a neo-Baroque style palace located just 5 minutes away by car.

VIBE: Peaceful, Vintage, Romantic.

DON’T MISS: anything. There isn’t really anything specific to do at Kuzguncuk per se; as long as you’re strolling down those cobbled alleys, marvelling at historic Ottoman architecture, stopping every now and then to play with a cat – and perhaps even popping in to one of their many cafes for a Turkish tea/coffee; then you’re probably doing it right. Start your amble at Gumusyolu Street and then zigzag your way through the streets towards the direction of Üsküdar. There is also a lovely Waterfront located just directly opposite the neighbourhood – the perfect stop for a rest once you feel like you’ve covered the area satisfactorily.

SKIP IF: slowing down makes you restless. Kuzguncuk really isn’t a place you come to do stuff. There aren’t even specific spots of interests for you to build your itinerary around. Rather, it is a highly immersive experience that will require you to explore on a deeper and more meaningful level; so if you’re hankering for a more structured plan, this neighbourhood might not be right for you.

FERRY TERMINAL: Üsküdar. It’s about 10 minutes away by car, but honestly it’s such a light, enjoyable walk that I highly recommend you to just cover this distance by foot if you’ve got the time and stamina to spare.

3. BEBEK

Normally, I wouldn’t recommend Bebek on account that it’s a tiny little affluent quarter that is just as good to visit as it is to skip; except, because it is so closely located to Arnavutkoy and then Ortakoy, you might as well extend your trail just that little bit more and start here anyway. After all, it does have a decidedly different vibe from its sister neighbourhoods, and offers a glimpse into the lives of Istanbul’s upper class.

Unfortunately, I didn’t manage any snaps that show a good overview of this place, so I’ll lean in on the goodness of the intenet to give you a sneak peek.

A lovely seaside promenade gathers the locals for afternoon picnics and dog walks by the waterfront, with plenty of chichi bistros and restaurants that nod to the theme of Bebek’s affluence.

VIBE: Posh, Relaxed, Swanky

DON’T MISS: … Walking? Once you find yourself at Bebek, you shouldn’t have any reason to hop onto a bus or cab as you make your way down to Arnavutkoy and then Ortakoy (unless it’s raining. Or your shoe broke. Or you sprained your ankle. Or you have a kid). The entire walk takes place by the Waterfront, and you will find yourself blessed with a view of the Bosphorous straits on your left, and rows upon rows of cafes, shops, and wooden Ottoman townhouses on your right, the entire way.

SKIP IF: You want to tighten the distance/time expended on your Arnavutkoy-Ortakoy trip. Bebek is more of a nice-to-see-by-the-way kind of place, but you really won’t miss much if you decide to leave it out altogether.

FERRY TERMINAL: To be honest, I got here by cab so I don’t want to be dishing inaccurate advice based on indirect research. But I believe the two closest Ferry Terminals to Bebek are Ortakoy and Besiktas, although there is still a considerable distance to cover by foot once you’re there. There also seems to be a ferry terminal at Arnavutkoy (called Arnavutkoy Iskelesi) which will definitely be much closer compared to the likes of Ortakoy and Besiktas, but this stop doesn’t seem to fall under any of the lines currently run by Senir Hatlari. Still, it’s probably best to just take this information to a local and get timelier advice from them.

Alternatively, as an estimate, a cab ride from Galata will cost you about 110-130 Turkish Lira.

4. ARNAVUTKOY

Bustling fish restaurants, pastel-coloured Ottoman townhouses, quaint shops and eateries – and a sun-soaked promenade- make this neighbourhood the ultimate escape from the whirlwind of Istanbul. It is not too quiet that it leaves you wondering why you even came – and yet, it is not crazy; built with just the right amount of buzzing activity to whet your appetite and keep your interest piqued.

One of the aspects of Arnavutkoy that fueled my fascination from the get-go was its collection of Ottoman townhouses (also known as Yali Mansions). Although you’d have spotted this unique Ottoman architecture from as far back as Kuzguncuk and Bebek, nothing will measure up to the old faded charm of the Arnavutkoy Yalis, complete with its classic tiled roofs and ornate timber panelling and eclectic suspended balconies. The feel is so reminiscent of Germany’s classic half-timbered houses – and yet, this architectural style is every bit a history that is Turkey’s own. These prized property pieces have always been home to Turkey’s most elite, dating to as far back as the 17th century where it was fashionable for Ottoman rulers to build prestigious summer homes along the Bosphorus for their families who form the social elite.

Today, many of these mansions are under conservation and restoration efforts – and those that are occupied, can fetch home value rates crossing the $100 million mark. The views, thankfully, are absolutely painless on the pocket.

VIBE: Bohemian, Quaint, Idyllic

DON’T MISS: the super cute Ottoman Townhouses directly facing the waterfront- oh, and of course, feel free to dig into some Seafood while you’re there; Arnavutkoy is chock full of fish restaurants, so that must really stand for something.

SKIP IF: You shouldn’t! Arnavutkoy was truly one of the most picturesque, fairytale-like places I came across in the whole of Istanbul (topping even the likes of Balat/Fener), and I cannot imagine recommending a reason to skip this at all.

FERRY TERMINAL: Same as was mentioned for Bebek’s. 🥲 Both neighbourhoods are so close in proximity and will likely share the same terminals if you’re planning to get there by public ferry.

5. ORTAKOY

The real beauty of Ortaköy lies in the seamless blending of Istanbul’s two faces into one exciting mass – the mad chaotic rush of the city centre, and the relaxed tranquility of its neighbourhood suburbs. It’s almost oxymoronic, but Ortaköy has a relaxed bustling quality to its atmosphere, almost like the perfect sample experience for those who want some tourist buzz but find the Sultanahmet & Eminonou districts altogether overwhelming. There are bazaars and ornate places of worship and here, gastronomy is both avant-garde and folkish. A fair warning that this place will put sinful gluttony to the fore – do not leave without trying these two things: the famed Ortaköy Waffles, where you can choose from a variety of toppings and add as many as you wish at a fixed price – and the iconic Ortaköy Kumpir, a giant baked potato stuffed with fillings and condiments of your own choice (also at a fixed price). If you have space to spare, grab some rice-stuffed mussels to go; they are absolutely indulgent and so, so delicious.

Unfortunately, this was one other neighbourhood where I enjoyed myself a little too much to stop and frame for pics – but I suppose that’s how you get me: throw a bazaar in my face where I least expect it, and I will completely FORGET. MYSELF.

Here are some awesome snaps from others who definitely did much better here than me. 😅

The famed Kumpir of Ortakoy

VIBE: Fun, Bustling, Gastronomic

DON’T MISS: the Ortakoy Mosque, Ortakoy Square, and also the Esma Sultan Mansion if you have time to spare for a dose of opulence.

SKIP IF: you can’t deal with crowds, big or small.

FERRY TERMINAL: Ortakoy.

6. KARAKOY

Not to be mistaken with Kadiköy from the Asian side, Karaköy is actually just a stone’s throw (about a 20 minute walk, tops) from the famed Galata district; and exists almost like a zen-like refuge from the madness of the city with its terrific hipster energy and artsy vibe. It’s flush with numerous cafes, local indie labels, art spaces and exhibits – and it even has its own smattering of places of worship for a nice touristic jaunt if the likes of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia prove too much to handle.

The good thing is, even though it’s so closely located to the heavily-visited Galata neighbourhood, Karaköy doesn’t seem to quite make it to the tourist radar as fervently as you’d imagine; and the result is a chic lil quarter with a compelling quietude, filled mostly only with locals and travellers in-the-know.

Due to its proximity to the heart of Istanbul and the convenience to get there (it’s easiest to reach out of all the neighbourhoods mentioned here), Karaköy was actually the first neighbourhood I ventured to when I decided to dump my tourist itinerary for something a little less… chaotic. I was immediately smitten by its collective pulse and jazzy vibe, and I imagined that if I had more time to spare in Istanbul, this would probably be the one place I’d keep returning to. It drums with enough activity without the whirlwind, beats with enough heart without the attack – it’s like that one place that would be at the top of your list if you need the background noise of, say, a Parisian café, as you whittle away a hot, blazing afternoon sipping tea/coffee while people-watching and/or daydreaming.

If I could sum Karaköy up in one word, I’d say, antidote. Karaköy is an antidote to the city’s boisterous buzz. And if you ever find yourself in Istanbul with not enough time to venture to the other neighbourhoods mentioned above, then just go for Karaköy. It’s reachable by ferry, metro, bus – you can even cab and it won’t cost you much, on account that it’s excruciatingly close to the centre.

VIBE: Hipster, Edgy, Artsy,

DON’T MISS: the baklava at Güllüoğlu (it’s known among the locals as the best baklava place in Istanbul); SALT, Istanbul’s contemporary art institution; and grabbing coffee at Filbooks, a super quaint cafe-slash-bookstore with a Scandinavian pastel aesthetic. If you’re looking for the IG-worthy Umbrella Street, it’s on Hoca Tahsin Sk (Street); better yet, just pin the cafe Ben’den Karaköy and you’ll find yourself where you need to be.

SKIP IF: the hipster scene just ain’t your thing.

FERRY TERMINAL: Karakoy.

7. BALAT

Istanbul’s most iconic borough comes to us packed full of swagger, and it wears this swag with absolute ease.

Seated comfortably close to the Sultanahmet district and yet tucked away enough to be relatively undisturbed by its frenetic animation, Balat is perhaps the one suburb in Istanbul that is no longer a hidden gem from tourists but, rather, an open secret; and therefore, in contrast to the peace and tranquility that you will find in abundance at the other neighbourhoods detailed above, here, you will instead be greeted with a buzzing historic quarter that is at once both monumental and offbeat in its own right.

It isn’t crazy, but it isn’t exactly crowd-free either – attracting perhaps just the right number of people to contribute to its thriving atmosphere without encroaching on anybody’s personal space.

Personally, I found the atmosphere at Balat to be pleasingly communal and extremely cosy, like a hot bowl of chicken soup for the soul when you most need it. The Jewish heritage is not one that is prominent where I’m from; and it was refreshing for me to be able to experience it at the most grassroots level and at such a historic locality like Balat (Balat’s Jewish presence traces to as far back as the 1400s). The colourful houses, which is usually what draws anyone’s attention to this humble little enclave in the first place, are still largely inhabited by the Jewish people (although there is an increasing mix of Muslims and Christians), and I thoroughly enjoyed watching the way they lived. Ladies improvised baskets and lowered them from the third floor to the first to vertically transport light sundries with ease; neighbours held mid-afternoon conversations with each other from across the streets, right out of their balcony windows; even their laundry is so… aesthetic, clothes and sheets hung in mid-air on laundry lines, fabrics billowing in the wind and lending its own magical rhythm to the atmosphere.

Of course, the other thing you will most enjoy when you’re in Balat is the nostalgic hodgepodge of markets and shops and cafes crammed with everything, from the most basic essentials like fruits and meat, to antique rarities and eccentric curio stores you will definitely not find anywhere else in Istanbul.

VIBE: Eclectic, Communal, Thriving

DON’T MISS: the historical Balat houses (although I’m pretty sure this is exactly what you came here for); İncir Ağacı Kahvesi, the cafe where the colourful rainbow staircase is; and simply just wandering around and soaking up the full vibrant vibes of Balat. Naftalin K (super cat-friendly) and Agora Meyhanesi (been around since 1890) are also recommended cafe choices if you’re hankering after a spot to relax and recharge mid-exploration.

SKIP IF: It is inconvenient for you to scale sloped streets, uneven cobblestone roads, and plenty of narrow steps. Balat is a tricky combination of all three (Istanbul is a very hilly city); some of the paths are also inclined at very steep angles, so if mobility is an issue, this is something you should definitely keep in mind.

FERRY TERMINAL: Fener

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Hope you enjoy these 7 off-the-beaten-path neighbourhoods in Istanbul, I know I definitely did!