Penang is one of the most experiential states in Malaysia, and there is no denying that. It is a place where that extra corner is always worth turning, that uncertain alley always worth exploring, that unassuming food joint always worth trying… because you know that whatever you’re about to encounter on the other side is something you probably wasn’t expecting.

And now, my confession: this isn’t actually my first time setting foot in Penang.

Some thirteen years back, when I was still a fresh-eyed twenty-four year old brimming with plans of grandeur to spend the rest of my life exploring this world, it was Penang that I chose as the first place to venture to.

And boy was it an adventure. It was a time without Google Maps and ride hailing and wifi everywhere you go. There were no Tiktok videos to help you uncover hidden gems, no proliferation of blog and Lemon8 reviews to help you shortlist your picks. It was an era marked purely by confidence based on however much you can commit to memory; and how I managed to navigate it all so deftly (relying solely on public transport!!) is, in retrospect, beyond me.

Fast forward thirteen years later, it is 2023; and keeping in mind that I’d done all the standard tourist highlights the first time round, I figured this would be the one where I’d finally be able to skip it all and get lost in the nuances instead. Most people spend four days in Penang, I had eight – which gave me more than ample time to uncover all the subtlest, most meticulous intricacies that people on a tight itinerary never have the privilege to. Finally, instead of constantly paddling in the shallows, I could dunk my head in the deep end; greet every morning with slow coffee and a pastry, swap sightseeing for random walks and immersive interactions.

And once again, I could not have been more wrong. It has been thirteen years, and during this time, Penang has somehow magically repurposed for itself both time and space, manifesting a great deal amount of change in the very fabric of its culture and landscape and infrastructure – all while appearing to have very much stayed the same. It was like meeting a familiar stranger you wanted to discover all over again. I ended up revisiting half the places I’d previously been to, again, and forming brand new realizations every single step of the way: Why does the Cheong Fatt Sze Mansion feel so much smaller now? Why have I not tried Penang White Coffee before? Why does the climb up to the War Museum suddenly feel so much shorter? How did I not notice the vibrance of Batu Ferringhi the first time round?

And I discovered more too, all over again: how did I totally miss the existence of the Clan Jetties the first time round? How did Penang Hill completely escape my attention??

And that’s when I realized, Penang is especially generous if you wander far enough. Its nerve centre may be Georgetown, undisputed (and most of your time will be well spent there too) – but, it is also a city pockmarked with a plethora of experiences to explore. After all, it is a state that has long sought to define itself beyond its aesthetic pride; its high-key reverence for progress and tradition affording it a reputation for being both future-facing and enduring at the same time.

And for that reason it turns out, Penang will also do many strange things to you if you visit it a decade later the second time round – it’ll warp your memories, steal your confidence, make you question everything about youself – but in return, it will also hand you plenty more new stories. And these stories, they will forever be yours to tell.

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Apps That Will Make Your Life Easier Here: 
So I recently discovered the magic of Wanderlog, which allows you to pin all the places you want to visit on one interactive map so that you can visualize and plan an itinerary more efficient and effective in nature. There are also tons of other helpful travel tools in there, like checklists, and expense trackers, and even smart recommendations that suggest places to go, based on where you’ll be.

Moovit is also a must if you’re intent on public transport (particularly buses). Just put in your current and intended destinations, and it’ll map out exactly how to get there. Independently, you can also check out the different bus service numbers, the bus stops they serve, as well as approximate arrival and journey times.

Also check out Linkbike, where you can rent a bicycle and explore Penang in a way that will prove faster than foot and cheaper than car.

Here, Most People Flock Straight To: Georgetown, the beating heart of Penang.

My First Impression of Penange In Five Words: Historic, Gastronomic, Cultural, Colourful, Creative

A Meaningful Penang Itinerary Would Include: a well laid-out foodie tour that hits all the iconic spots, peppered with a healthy dose of historic/cultural pit stops such as Cheong Fatt Sze Mansion, Peranakan Museum, Clan Jetties, Armenian Street, and the likes.

I Woke Up With: Eastern & Oriental, the historic sister of Singapore’s very own Raffles Hotel.

The First Thing I Did After Checking In Was: Fawn over all the age-old artefacts in the hotel I almost forgot to head out.

To give a little context, Eastern & Oriental was built in 1885, and is the oldest hotel in Malaysia today. With its original structure still largely in tact and it manual electric lift still proudly maintained to working condition, the entire place exists as a sensual nod to Malaysia’s colonial past; its hundred-and-thirty-four-year-old corridors and walls practically dripping with tales and gossip of a bygone era. Notable guests include Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham, Charlie Chaplin – even Queen Elizabeth!; my favourite finds were the old E&O ads carefully curated and framed in its lobby, as well as the original door keys from the 1880s, which form the main decorative backsplash of its check-in counters today.

The Best Way to Move Around Penang Is By: Foot if you’re keeping your activities within Georgetown; and Grab (a ride-hailing app) if you’re headed elsewhere. For most part, fares are SUPER cheap to the point that it’s pointless considering public transport unless for the sheer thrill of the experience.

This Experience Is A Must: Georgetown is an obvious, so I’ll recommended another: Penang Hill.

Most people don’t get to work this into their itinerary especially if they’re not spending alot of time here; but it’s actually quite the delectable break from the city. It’s only about 20-ish minutes away from Georgetown by car; so all things considered, not as inaccessible as one might imagine.

To make your detour well worth its time, top off your visit with a trip to nearby Kek Lok Si, a hundred-and-thirty-three-year-old Buddhist temple that stands as one of the largest and finest temple complexes in Southeast Asia today.

If I Had 24 Hours In Penang, I Would: Focus all my attention on Georgetown. Most of Penang’s main sights are saturated in this enclave (which is muuuuch huger than you think). You will be well occupied hopping from one place to the next without even needing to leave the district.

If I Can Only Eat One Thing Here, It’s: One thing?? You can’t just eat one thing when you’re in Penang????

Seriously speaking though, if it’s really only just one thing, then it would have to be Nasi Kandar – and this is in spite of the entire slew of dishes waiting impatiently in line, so inextricably bound to this state it even has the word ‘Penang’ in its name.

This is because, as good as things like Penang Char Kway Teow and Penang Assam Laksa and Penang Chendol (and Penang-a hundred other things) are, they are also readily available elsewhere; and you will have plenty of time and space to catch up even after you’ve left the state.

But Nasi Kandar. Oh. It’s like no one else knows how to do right by it except for Penang. Which is really bizarre because, literally, all it is is a plate of white rice accompanied by an array of sides of your choosing – but there is just something in the way it’s done in Penang that leaves it, unparalleled.

Best ones can be found at Nasi Kandar Imigresen, Hameediyah Nasi Kandar, and Nasi Kandar Penang Line Clear.

For A True Taste of Local Food, Also Try: Hokkien Mee, Char Koey Kak, Curry Mee, Oyster Omelette, Pasembur, Apom/Apong, Roti Cenai, and Penang’s version of Popiah (spring rolls), which, here, is presented doused in soup. This is, of course, on top of the Char Kway Teow, Assam Laksa, and Penang Chendol that I just mentioned above-

Oh, and one word of advice: do not ask Penangites where you can find “THE BEST…” such-and-such; this is a question that irritates them to no end, particularly because there is, more often than not, more than just one “best” place for anything… and when it comes to Penang food, “best” is extremely subjective depending who you ask.

Instead of asking for what and where is “best” (because this is really something you can just Google if you want), ask them what their favourite is. Now that, is priceless information that they will be more than willing to share.

The Penang Locals Don’t Want You to Know About: Balik Pulau, a countryside suburb nestled on the western side of the island and every bit the quiet, idyllic enclave it sounds. Structured activities include horse stables, fruit and animal farms, spice garden; but if you prefer to explore without paper and plan, then gear up for a long amble where you can expect to discover pretty laidback things like kampungs and fishing villages and plantations and rice paddy fields and even perhaps a hidden cafe, thriving in its tranquility as it remains largely undiscovered by mainstream tourists.

One Thing You Should Never Do In Penang Is: Think that you can get your authentic’s fill at tourist traps, like Gurney Drive or Esplanade. Instead, carve out the time to invest in a little research, and make a beeline for “hidden gems” favoured by locals. To be honest, most of them aren’t that hidden- you just need to put in a little effort to find out what constitutes as required tasting in Penang, and then shortlist the places that interest your tastebuds.

Personally, the majority of my food research was derived from Penang Foodie: 90% of my food itinerary was made up of recommendations off their Tiktok page, and I have to say, they definitely served up some really solid hits.

One Thing I Did But Could Have Skipped Was: Butterworth.

Don’t get me wrong, it’s a worthy destination in its own right. It’s just that, unlike its main sister counterpart, exploration here requires a lot more nuance and time spent; it is definitely not something you can casually squeeze into a day and expect to get much done. Many of its most famous eating places either close by noon if not 3 (in the afternoon, that is) – or, they’re so far out they take a fair bit of time (and ride hailing money) to get to. In addition, Butterworth’s better attractions are more like, hideouts, in every sense of the word; and without your own private transport, it would be tough to even think about crossing more than two things off your list in a full day (because everything is just, all over the place).

One Thing I Skipped But Wish I Did Was: 

Jerejak Island, an adorable little offshore island that used to be a quarantine station/detention centre/prison – even a refugee camp at one point- but is now a tiny living musuem of all things hipster/Gen Z. Don’t drag it before you bag it though – here, the vibe shines as bright as its generation(s); and its true beauty is that it’s primed for both fleeting phototaking expeditions by the young at heart; and meaningful bike rides and nature walks for the old souls.

The Best Photos Opportunities Can Be Found: Everywhere. This is Penang. You can take a photo of a fly and chances are, it’d turn out Instagram-worthy.

For A Glimpse of Daily Life, I Recommend: Heading to the Clan Jetties, of which there are six. If you only have time for one, make it Chew Jetty though the others are well worth a visit too.

Alternatively, Georgetown is an entire masterclass on “Daily Life” in itself; saturated with history and lived experiences as old as time. While some parts are decidedly touristy, others are local to the tee . Embark on a leisurely stroll through its diverse streets and districts, and soak in the multifaceted tapestry of its very local, very authentic sights, sounds, and smells.

I’m Not A Hipster, But: Penang’s cafe scene is hipster heaven – and it’s not even hard to see why. Cafes upon cafes seem to be sprout at every corner, each as apt as the next at measuring and serving up the hipster mood to precision.

Of course, it isn’t just all just aesthetics; this is Penang after all, and here, food is a serious affair. Expect an equal dose of unscripted authenticity when it comes down to the menu; which is often times jewelled with culture and packed with punchy flavor. For some good ol’ quality east-meets-west grub try out Norm Micro Roastery, The Mugshot Cafe, China House, or even Pitaya by Juice Code; but if something else catches your eye along the way, my advice is to just trust your gut and go with it. Hipster joints in Penang are usually as good to look as they are to eat in; and it’s hard to go wrong on that front.

Stretch That $10 In My Pocket: If you do well, $10 can get you three solid meals in Penang. Food is so cheap here you can easily fill yourself with a bowl of noodles or rice for as low as RM3 (approx. USD0.60). It’s unbelievable.

For A More Bucolic Setting: Head to Penang Hill as previously mentioned – or better yet, go big at Penang National Park. It’s one of the most expansive things I’ve ever seen and yet – small by Malaysia’s terms: at 23 sq km, it is contrarily the country’s smallest national park. Don’t read it as insignificance though: expect jungle treks and canopy walks and boat trips and hidden beaches. Along the way, you may even run into silvered leaf monkeys and flying lemurs and leopard cats if you’re lucky; but more commonly you will probably see at least 5 different insects you’d never come across before in your entire life.

Definitely set aside an entire day if you’re pencilling this in. Situated at the Northwest corner of the island, this is not one that’s easy to get to nor quick to get through; and once your exploration quest is complete, you can always head to the nearby Batu Ferringhi enclave for a well-deserved recuperation, beachfront-style.

An Offbeat Thing I Did That I Liked Was: The Penang War Museum, which, apparently, seems to always be that *one* offbeat thing I like running off to whenver I’m in a new Malaysian state. In Penang though, the War Museum is decidedly different. For starters, it is an open air museum, set on the very same grounds as a British military fortress from the 30s so, all in all, a surreal moment to trigger your imagination and wonder what might have gone down here all those decades ago.

Exploration is very safe of course; but the authenticity is nevertheless highly palpable in its well-preserved structures; with the same bunkers, tunnels, dorms, pits, defense weapons all still largely in tact, seamlessly integrated into its present-day exhibits. For the record, you actually get to crawl through tunnels, and climb up ladders that resurface at ground level – extremely experiential, as I said.

It is the largest war museum in Southeast Asia today – and in my opinion, perhaps one of the most effectively poignant of its era.

The Dumbest Myth I’ve Ever Heard About Penangites Is: that they are extremely stingy people. This myth, however questionably founded, traces its roots back to modern-day Peranakans – a people so notorious for their tight-fisted methods of money management the rumour transcends geographical boundaries and echoes deep even within the Singaporean Peranakan community.

But are they really stingy – or are they just extremely financially astute? Let’s not forget that Penang remains one of the most expensive states in Malaysia to live in; so all things considered, are they just ‘cheapskates’… or do they simply know how to make their money count?

I Enjoyed This A Little More Than I Should (Guilty Pleasure): Indulging my #ihaveathingwithfloors obsession with Penang’s endless tapestry of Peranakan floor & wall tiles. It’s a fusion of unintentionally and fastidiously preserved masterpieces – and the results are, always, 10/10 magnificent.

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Enjoy Penang, I know I did.