[Image Credit: Wanderlust Magazine]

Your connection with Sabah begins with the invisible: an inhale of tropical humidity, mingled with the earthy aroma of rainforests and a hint of salt from the seas. Whispers of folklore, carried through generations of the living. These layers seamlessly envelop you upon arrival, a telltale of the unwavering legacy of a land where nature and tradition are so inextricably linked, there is no one without the other; where, with every landscape that you discover, a greater story exists.

Mount Kinabalu, the locals believe, is the final resting grounds of their ancestors’ spirits*. After all, the name Kinabalu is literally derived from the Dusun term for ‘resting place of the dead’; and till today, most guides still seek permission through a pre-expedition prayer before leading groups up.

In villages where the tribal heritage of the Sabahan people burns the brightest, you will hear of the bobohizan, a powerful line of shamans who mediate between spirits and the living, playing a pivotal role in their community by appeasing the afterlife through festivals, celebrations, sacrifices, incantations- and at times even reading omens and taking the auspices.

*In 2015, following a huge controversial incident where ten tourists stripped naked and peed upon reaching its summit, an earthquake of 5.9 magnitude hit Mount Kinabalu and caused the death of eighteen people. This disaster intensified the anger of the locals – particularly the indigenous tribes who believed that the tourists’ desecration of their sacred site had incurred the wrath of the guardian spirits; and for months after, native communities in Sabah performed days-long ceremonies and rituals in a bid to appease the spirits, including the monogit which typically lasts for four days.

And as you trek through the varied terrains of its dense jungles, punctuated with waterfalls and scored by deep gorges, an otherworldly quality presents itself to you by the way of the Orang Bunian, the elusive ‘hidden people’ of the forest- not known to harm, but rather, assist humans; especially in the deep forests and high mountains that they are known to inhabit.

Sabah, you soon learn, is a land of a thousand legends, and its culture is built on a rich oral narrative. Here, every element is a symbol, a tradition, a belief in the making; and there is no land without spirit, and no spirit without the living. Travellers who arrive with nuance and eager to discover the true heart of Sabahan culture, will definitely be rewarded with an unforgettable performance from a storyteller at the peak of its prowess. But for those who prefer to sidestep the intricacies of it all, who choose to appreciate the nature but reject the mystique, they will wander through Sabah missing the very magic that breathes life into it all, drifting from place to place like the shadows that they, ironically, do not believe in.

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3 Apps That Will Make Your Life Easier Here: After you’ve downloaded Grab, proceed to check out:
1) Hello Sabah. It’s an all-in-one travel app specifically for the state, offering bookings for hotels, transfers, tours, attraction tickets, reviews, the likes.
2) Go Sabah, a Sabah Tourism Board-backed app that gives you the full downlow, from helpful tips on what to do/eat and getting around to events & happenings, as well as the inside scoop on all its eco treasures.
3) Friends of Sabah, made specifically to address tourist safety especially during emergencies as users can initiate an SOS call directly from the app to state’s security command centre.

My First Impression of Sabah In Five Words: Relaxed, Multi-Ethnic, Rugged, Spiritual, Adventurous

Here, Most People Flock Straight To: Kota Kinabalu; it’s likely your first point of entry into the state.

A Meaningful Sabah Itinerary Would Include: Checking off the standard city sights in Kota Kinabalu; fraternizing with Orang Utans in the wild; jungle trekking; island hopping and even diving if you have your papers (otherwise snorkelling is too an option) – and of course, catching the world-renowned Sabah sunset at Tanjong Aru beach.

[Image Credits: Laugh Travel Eat]

My Personal Favourite Was The: Gaya Street Sunday Market. Nestled along the walking aisles of Sabah’s unofficial Chinatown, this bustling outdoor bazaar is the perfect place to lose a morning (and even possibly your afternoon). Here you’ll find everything, from your standard food and fashion booths to a more quirky repository of antique, collectibles, crafts, curios, and trinkets of singular tastes.

An Honourable Mention Is: the Mari Mari Cultural Village (about twenty five minutes from Kota Kinabalu), a living museum that offers an immersive experience into the traditional lifestyles and cultures of various indigenous groups in Sabah. Each tribe has its own unique traditions, languages, and customs, all of which are well showcased through its traditional houses. You can also expect hands-on activities that include fire-starting, bamboo cooking, and traditional dance performances, amongst others.

I Woke Up With: Hyatt Regency Kinabalu. The grandeur and sheen is admittedly a little timeworn; although, location and comfort are still a solid A+.

If I Only Had 24 Hours In Kota Kinabalu, I Would: Make peace with whatever fleeting touch I can get out of the place. Unfortunately, Sabah’s sights are diversely scattered across the entire region (and it is the third largest state in the country); many require your commitment of time and commute.

That said, should you somehow find yourself with just 24 hours here, start at Sabah Museum for a concise feel of the state’s history and culture- and if time allows, squeeze in a trip to Monsopiad Cultural Village, which is faster and more convenient to get to than Mari Mari. If apes and wildlife are more your thing, a glimpse of the Orang Utans are still a possibility, via Shangri-la’s Rasa Ria Reserve which- admittedly, is still a little ways out of town… but definitely easier to pull off than an actual visit to a sanctuary (plus your money still goes towards a preservation organization anyway, so all in all the same thing).

If you’re lucky enough to have the evening here, head straight to Tanjong Aru for the sunset and vibes. Above all, make food your focus. Like all other Malaysian states, food is the cornerstone to a well-built itinerary and a well-relished experience here will include some freshly grilled seafood by the waterfront.

For A True Taste of Local Food: Put aside all ubiquitous Malaysian fare like Laksa and Satay and Nasi Lemak and all that; and hunt down only the most authentic Sabahan fare that are exclusive to Sabah and Sabah only. This includes Hinava (essentially raw fish cured with lime juice, typically served with Tuhau & Bambangan ), Ambuyat (a tasteless starchy tapioca dish that pairs well with a wide range of local dips & sauces); and Linopot (leaf-wrapped rice served with an array of condiments and side dishes); amongst many others. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, Butod is also a thing here (and extremely popular too). They’re basically the fattest sago worms you’ve ever seen, served grilled, roasted, fried – or even raw.

If Elbow-to-Elbow Moments Don’t Deter You: Make a pilgrimage to the Philippine Market, an indoor bazaar made up of a potpourri of a hundred different smaller vendors hawking everything under the Sun (and then some). Expect your standard market produce, local snacks, dried goods… and also handicrafts, homewares, souvenirs, accessories, clothes, and occasionally some really bizarre artefacts. This is retail therapy at its most rugged, and the vibe is guaranteed to put you in a good mood.

Gentle side note of caution: the aisles in here are narrow and it can get crowded certain times of the day and certain days of the week. Be very aware of your personables at all times.

The Sabahan Locals Don’t Want You to Know About: the Baja Laut, an indigenous tribe inhabiting the azure waters of southern Philippines, Indonesia, and Malaysia. Also known as sea gypsies, this people rarely- if ever- set foot on land; and their day-to-day survival is entirely reliant on their resourcefulness and remarkable ingenuity in utilizing every aspect of their environment for sustenance.

So estabished is the Baja tribe in their itinerant way of life, their genes have literally evolved over centuries to hone over-enlarged spleens that allow them to hold their breath underwater for up to ten minutes at a time. Unwittingly, all their extraordinary gifts combined have also drawn the gaze of intrigued wanderers worldwide; who have since turned their stilt-house villages and off-grid way of living into an wildcard attraction of sorts, taking boat rides and planning photography trips around a community of people who are not accustomed to the spectacle.

If you really must visit, please ensure that your impact is a net positive. Gift a token in exchange for taking a photograph. Offer to buy what they are selling (if they are selling anything); find ways to nourish the families for their hospitality. Whatever it is, do not take this as your standard tourist sight and expect to come and go empty-handed.

One Thing I Did But Could Have Skipped Was: Cafe hop. Generally speaking, Malaysia is an undisputed trailblazer in the vibrant tapestry of cafe culture and many are solid enough to be a destination in its own right- but, Sabah is just one of those places where spending time in cafes only serve to detract from the real thing.

Focus on embracing the untamed beauty of its landscapes and the heartbeat of its unique Bornean heritage, for these are the true stories that Sabah longs to tell.

One Thing I Skipped But Wish I Did Was: summit Mount Kinabalu.

Need I say more?

For A Glimpse of Daily Life, I Recommend: doing a Village Homestay, for the warmth of Sabahan hospitality is truly like none other – plus, you’d also get a hands-on appreciation of the locals’ way of life, from cooking to farming and everything else in between. If this proves a little too much for your inner introvert to bear, spend a day visiting fishermen’s villages, where you can witness the daily routines of the local fishermen from afar.

If You Want A Break From the Standard Tourist Grind: Rent a tent and camp on any one of the five islands at Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. There’s Gaya, Manukan, Sapi, Mamutik, and Sulug; each unique in its own way. All are easily accessible via Kota Kinabalu at less than a thirty-minute boat ride away- yet, provide an atmosphere of seclusion that feels worlds away from the bustling city

I Wish I Knew This Earlier: The second you head out of the city- whether it is to a cultural village, a park, sanctuary, or even just the beach- make sure you have bug spray with you. The mosquitoes here move with the stealth of Seal Team Six, so don’t take your chances unless you don’t mind presenting yourself as a human buffet.

Memorable Advice From A Stranger: It’s not that they don’t care. They just choose not to say anything.

If you ever find yourself at a beach in Kota Kinabalu and spot some oblivious foreigner walking around in their bikinis and towels, do not take that as an acceptable measure of etiquette. This is not the norm here. You will neither be arrested nor will anyone (for most part) accost you for your impropriety- but, know that the locals do notice, and it does bother them; and it is nothing but the purest form of Sabahan hospitality that stops them from embarrassing you in public about it.

Elsewhere on neighbouring islands, this dress code is fully approved of – just, not on mainland.

The Dumbest Myth I’ve Ever Heard About Kelantan Is: That Headhunters still exist. 😒

Apart from it being completely inaccurate, I don’t know what else to say to this- except that it reveals some really problematic, dated stereotypes from whoever’s saying it.

The Key to A Successful Trip to Sabah Is: to fully embrace your spirit of adventure and tread forward with an open heart and mind. This is no metropolis and you’ll be bored if you’re here for the standard comforts of a typical holiday; disappointed if you’re just here to tick stuff off lists. This is one of those places where you can end up with a fuller experience by doing just one thing instead of everything; so pick what is truly important for you, fully immerse yourself in the present, and let spontaneity guide you through your journey.

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Enjoy Sabah. I know I did.

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